My Lui 125 conversion

should have gone to specsavers
as for the light, they might have taken a live from the headset junction terminals to power a brake light.

wack 63 wrote:Hi chaps,I don't think the Vari CDI will work with a Ducati type stator although the reg is fine. Tight to get in but can be done ,I used the rack threads to hold a plate.As for the price of the Vari regulator check out a used Honda SFX 50 or similar scooter on Ebay you can pick one up for less than a tenner.

Hi wack. If you are about can you tell me how the SFX 50 connectors should be wired up? I've bought one by the way (£3 ) as I like the idea of saving a bit of space.

Progress wise I have now removed the electric gubbins from their respective stator plates so now I need to fix the pk electrics to the vega stator. What do you use to fix two bits together?

I've contacted wack (Lloyd) via the LCGB forum and he's been good enough to point me towards some information on the varitronic wiring. Based on this and other information I have tried to construct a wiring diagram. I'm not great with electrics so I would welcome any opinions on whether this is along the right lines

i can only see power coming out of the regulator (brown) no power going in (blue from stator)

As daz has said as i couldn't see what i thought was funny until then but now i can see what i throught was missing then have you spliced the blue from the stator onto the brown from the regulator rather than two single feeds

To be honest I dont really understand it either - how the regulator can have any effect if it has no feed into it? This is the varitronic information that Lloyd pointed me towards

http://www.lambretta.co.uk/downloads/vari1.jpg

Also he said that

fed my vega stator lighting wire into terminal 3 (on diagram).I used a seperate earth from terminal 2.The other terminals are for a battery.It is easier to use a piggy back spade terminal on a short wire coming from the regulator to connect the main loom feed and the stator feed together just to make it easier if you want to remove the stator at any time

I have tried to reflect this in the wiring diagram. I'm assuming that the brown wires in my loom are the lighting.

the bottom left and top right connectors are bridged, power is coming from top right terminal.

look here, much easier than the cambridge b/w scan.

http://issuu.com/scooter-center.com/docs/sales_leaflet_bgm6690?mode=embed&layout=http%3A%2F%2Fskin.issuu.com%2Fv%2Flight%2Flayout.xml&showFlipBtn=true&autoFlip=true&autoFlipTime=6000

It is strange how the regulator does its job when you would think the power would bypass it ,but it does.I have to admit that I have not used my SFX reg yet but expect to soon ,I was assured it will work but can't find a Honda wiring diagram to check which wire goes to which terminal.

daz.h wrote:the bottom left and top right connectors are bridged, power is coming from top right terminal.

look here, much easier than the cambridge b/w scan.

http://issuu.com/scooter-center.com/docs/sales_leaflet_bgm6690?mode=embed&layout=http%3A%2F%2Fskin.issuu.com%2Fv%2Flight%2Flayout.xml&showFlipBtn=true&autoFlip=true&autoFlipTime=6000

As I read it all the wiring diagrams on the BGM web site have a seperate AC out. Is this what your suggesting Daz?

wack 63 wrote:It is strange how the regulator does its job when you would think the power would bypass it ,but it does.I have to admit that I have not used my SFX reg yet but expect to soon ,I was assured it will work but can't find a Honda wiring diagram to check which wire goes to which terminal.

Ah. It would be interesting to know if it works or not.

I compared the SFX reg to the Vari one on my GP and they are exactly the same but didn't want to pull all the terminals off to try it.When it gets fitted to new scoot in a few weeks I will wire up the same as a Varitronic and hope it's ok.

Well since my last update I've made a little progress.
I've had a friend rewire my stator plate
I've completed the bracket for holding the cdi and reg
I've got my head around the wiring and have threaded all the wires in, and started to connect these up.
I've made an exit hole for the HT lead
And I've fitted a junction box to my head cowling.




I'm now having second thoughts about the position of this as I'm thinking it could be liable to getting wet with kick back from the wheel, especially as i've shortened the mudguard. I'm going to leave it where it is for the time being and see. I'm not exactly planning on touring on the scooter and it will probably only get used on nice sunny days .

joeyfont wrote:...forget about where all the bits used to go....
what i did was found the keyway position when the points started to open = 11 o'clock before tdc
put the boss on crank,then line the electronic flywheel up with pickup timing mark,bolt flywheel to boss...

You know what, I still dont really understand this. How can you find a keyway position when the points start to open when there are no points

how are you getting on snails?
daz

I've still got to fit the boss to the flywheel but I think I know what I'm doing now. Also I think I should be able to get the timing reasonably close using the positive stop method as the timing disk off Lunabase prints out at the right size. Hopefully I'll get both jobs finished tomorrow and then all I have to do is decide which of the two pipes I have to use, work out how the throttle cable attaches to its twist grip, fit the flywheel cover, check for a spark, put some petrol in the tank, add the engine oil, say a little prayer and give it a go and with any luck I will be dancing a little jog down the road. If not I guess I will be

Noticed the old tax disk on it the other day - Sept 97!

If I get it to run think I'm just going to get it back on the road for a year and enjoy it before I start the body work! That would probably take another couple of years knowing how fast I am and I cant bare to see it stuck in the garage any longer!

The choice of pipes is whether to use my Chisselspeed leg burner or the Scootopia repo job. As this is a 125cc I'm inclinded to go for the legburner and to keep the repo for my 75 bitza. Unfortunately this needs chroming or painting but I cant afford to chrome it and I dont trust heat proof paint to stay on so it may end up being the repo after all.

How does the throttle cable fit at the grip?

Ah yes the throttle worm and tube, has to be the most cockamamie way to control a carb You have a brass worm which is in the housing on the handlebars, it's a oblong block with a raised diaganol section. This section sits inside a slanted slot cut into the throttle tube which your hand grip covers, as you twist the throttle open it moves the worm along the slot pulling the cable and opening your carb.
I had to use a longer cable for my carb with the nipple at the carb end and had to solder a nipple at the throttle end, what a pain. Is it just me that thinks it's a poor, notchy way to to open a carb????

snails, im happy to lend you my digi timing gauge and timing light if you wish.
daz

Thackers wrote:Ah yes the throttle worm and tube, has to be the most cockamamie way to control a carb You have a brass worm which is in the housing on the handlebars, it's a oblong block with a raised diaganol section. This section sits inside a slanted slot cut into the throttle tube which your hand grip covers, as you twist the throttle open it moves the worm along the slot pulling the cable and opening your carb.
I had to use a longer cable for my carb with the nipple at the carb end and had to solder a nipple at the throttle end, what a pain. Is it just me that thinks it's a poor, notchy way to to open a carb????

Sounds like fun. Thanks for the explanation. I will no doubt be back with more questions once I've had another look!

daz.h wrote:snails, im happy to lend you my digi timing gauge and timing light if you wish.
daz

Hey that's very good of you! Is that the same as a strobe gun? That means I would get timing in the right area and then double check with gun?

I needless to say did not achieve as much as I anticipated today but did loctight on all the flywheel and stator bolts. Then when I went to move it ran over and tore part of my loom which I had to repair and that was all I had time for. Anyway it also meant I need one more bullet connector than I have. Frustrating.

Roll on next week when I should get another hour!

Hi all,I finally got around to using the Honda regulator and it wires up different to a Varitronic one. The easiest way to explain is lay the reg on it's back with the terminal block facing you .The terminals to use are the two left hand ones,top one is earth the lower one the live in/out. The right hand ones are for a battery system.

Snails wrote:

daz.h wrote:snails, im happy to lend you my digi timing gauge and timing light if you wish.
daz

Hey that's very good of you! Is that the same as a strobe gun? That means I would get timing in the right area and then double check with gun?

I needless to say did not achieve as much as I anticipated today but did loctight on all the flywheel and stator bolts. Then when I went to move it ran over and tore part of my loom which I had to repair and that was all I had time for. Anyway it also meant I need one more bullet connector than I have. Frustrating.

Roll on next week when I should get another hour!

thats my dial gauge for measuring piston tdc accurately and my strobe gun

I always been told that the difference between a vega and series 3 sh1 20 is only a lip on the mouth for the filter and the flip choke screw mechanism. There fore I'm fairly sure I have a Vega sh1 20. What I dont understand is how it works with the throttle cable as the slide mechanism is the wrong way round as its desgined for placement on the left hand side of the scooter, if you know what I mean?

Hope I'm just being thick again! Is it something to do with the throttle cable routing being different on a lui and a vega?

throttle cable goes behind the carb and loops up back on its self.
not the best picture, but i'm sure you will get the idea.

Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrraaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh the pain!



Just realised that a Vega has an extra bit on its engines case for the exhaust to mount on.

snails just remembered about my dial gauge and timing light, do you still need them both?
the cylinder head will need removing if using the dial gauge, or you could use the posative stop method and do away with the dial gauge.
daz