My Lui 125 conversion

I have a GP so I will have a look

Well the good news is that like GC says the light unit is the same as the GP!   
Bad news is that i have bought and fitted a new light unit and everything is the same - no lights, no horn only a cut out.   

Now to my very inexperienced mind the fact that the horn does not work seems to me to potentially be a good sign that it maybe isn't a problem with light coil on the stator??? Thats kind of my nightmare scenario.

Anyway I still thinks its a bad earth. Now I've earthed it to the handlebars and I have removed the paint from where the earth wire touches the handle bars but I wonder if I need to remove paint (actually powder coat) from the base of the handlebars and also at the same point where the handle bars touch the headstock for the earth to work? Has anyone else had to do this?

just had the same problem with mine.on one of the black wires there was a yellow wire connected to one of them and connected to the yellow dot(one end of festoon bulb) I took this out and put the earth from the headset clamp in to the white dot(the one on the other side which puts earth to main bulb and festoon bulb).looks like previous owner tried to earth the live side of bulbs. fired it up and everything works.

boozee wrote:on one of the black wires there was a yellow wire connected to one of them and connected to the yellow dot(one end of festoon bulb) I took this out and put the earth from the headset clamp in to the white dot(the one on the other side which puts earth to main bulb and festoon bulb).

I have my earth from the headstock clamp into the white dot already I think - 9 0'clock if you look at the block from the rear. I have nothing connected to the yellow (3 oclock) socket. Is this how you mean yours is now?

I checked my earth at the headstock using a multimeter and its fine. One thing my checks showed is that there is no connectivity between the brown light feed from the loom to the earth - I cant see why this should be so. I do have connectivity from the blacks blue/red depending on how the light switch is positioned and most of the other cables.

God two months have passed and I'm still working on the lights! Its no wonder I'm this whole thing has taken 7 years!

Anyway they are nearly done, although I am two and half light switches down due to melting the rockers with a battery charger due to a short in my pattern rear light unit.  I think i would still be in the dark (literally) if not for some assistance from a very kind gent from LCGB who came round and gave the lighting the once over.

All my lights etc are working although I am still to try my front brake light switch but i don't see why it wont work - oh and I need to work out why the lense on my rear light wont fit after I took it off to make the necessary modifications to stop it shorting.     

Then all I need to do is put it back together, tighten all the cables etc etc. What will go wrong next. Answers on a postcard....

Snails wrote:

Then all I need to do is put it back together, tighten all the cables etc etc. What will go wrong next. Answers on a postcard....

Let me give you a clue...

https://lunaownersclub.forumotion.com/t667-thread-for-headlight-screws

I half knew in myself as I typed my last comment in that thread that trouble was in store and probably a few others on here guessed too. Anyway, m4 bolts go right through the holes so I've had the tap an die out and tapped (or is it died? I never know) out an m5 thread on to the hole. Just need to open up the light unit holes and shorten the M5 bolts I have. What a pain.

I do have a question, what is it that keeps the light unit in place on the threaded bolts? It seems to me that the unit should move back and forth as there is no thread on the light unit holes. Also what is the rubber band round the light unit in the picture? Obviously its a rubber band to prevent water or vibration damage but I dont have one and I dont ever remember seeing it on any of the units that come up on ebay. I dont remember seeing any individualy sold ones either new or second hand either. Please dont tell me they are vital.




I have made a little progress as can be seen.



It seems to run ok but I'm getting a lot of splash back oil from between my exhaust and the manifold. Is this a conmen problem? Any tips on how to prevent it?

This leak is not unusual. Yours is a 125 conversion isn't it? The new cylinder will make it difficult to align the silencer to the crankcase lugs without an adapter. I made mine out of a piece of ally plate shaped to fit the crankcase and the silencer mounting holes. Basically it allows the silencer to sit about 10mm higher. If you don't get the angle of the silencer right the joint at the manifold will always be skewed and it will leak. If you take the silencer of the lugs and as you hold it tighten up the stub clamp you will see how the new bracket will improve the fit.

Paul

Hi Ed, there is a pair of springs that go with the headlight. Not springs like a coiled unit more of a sprung arm type of adjuster. I'm not 100% on how they go as mine were missing, but Siobhan was selling them on here recently
https://lunaownersclub.forumotion.com/t663-fs-vega-cometa-headlight-springs

There was something on these springs on here somewhere, I think Daz had come by some so again he's your man.
There is this
https://lunaownersclub.forumotion.com/t354-those-pesky-headlight-springs-a-cheap-fix
And this
https://lunaownersclub.forumotion.com/t75-wanted-head-light-springs?highlight=headlight+springs
I think the rubber round the light unit is like you say to stop water and help with the vibes

David. Thanks I have the springs. I think I may just be using them wrongly! Will have another look.

Paul mine is a 125 you are right. However I used a Cento barrel rebored to 125 on Jem Booths advice as this provides a closer exhaust port height to a vega. I had no problem aligning the pipe with the manifold as I had to weld lugs to my engine casing and drill the holes out myself to fit the vega pipe. I'll have a look and think about the bracket to see if it might improve matters anyway. I'm on my mobile at moment so not best for looking at what u have said.

The springs are mounted between the handlebars and the headset bottom. This then leaves two straight parts of the springs sticking out at the bottom of the headset. These sit in a bit of the headlamp. This does two things. Give tension, and also tilt of the headlamp.

BTW, the original screws going throughout the headlamp and attaching it to the headset bottom are 30mm M4 counter sunk screws.

Siobhan

snails, I have used exhaust assembly paste on my exhaust and manifold.
just smear it on both surfaces and clamp the exhaust up tight then start it up, it then gets hot and seals the small gaps, and then stays hard.

Thanks Daz that sounds ideal

This is my light unit. Where do the springs clip into? Fingers crossed this aint faulty in some way

the springs don't clip into the headlight snails, they just provide pressure against the bottom lip of the light unit.

this might give you a better idea snails.
https://lunaownersclub.forumotion.com/t34p45-latest-project

Right all my electrics and fitted and tested - even my front brake stop light. The worst part of the scoot cosmetically will be the front headlight surround - its such a bad fit. Considering the price 2nd hand ones go for I'm surprised they are not remade even considering the smaller market for Vega. Oh well

Can anyone tell me what type of screw fixing it should have. I cant remember what it was fixed with when I took it apart and cant find anything obviously correct.

Nearly finished. Need to have a look at my jetting info and see what I have in my carb. I have two carbs, one is jetted right for a Vega and the other is well off I think. As mine is 125 I will look for some info I have saved on other 125 jetting and see how close I can get.

Other jobs left:

fit number plate
paint and fit headlight surround
fit exhaust paste
fit spare wheel and holder
finish gear and clutch cabling
fit centre beam

Some cosmetic tasks such as rechroming the kick start will have to wait till the winter.

I could really do with the small exhaust guard as well but dont think these are remade anywhere are they?

Ed, as posted recently by Siobhan, the headlight screws are M4 0.7 pitch. I think it's close to the screws that are used in electrical plug sockets where they fix to a back box. Another suggestion for the exhaust is silicone, I've used it before and seemed to work ok.
On the headlight subject, I too can't believe they are not re-made especially when the far east are so good at copying things.
That centre beam is a joy to fit, watch your paintwork   

David - that's for the single screw that fits the headlight rim to headstock?

I've heard about the beam being a pain - can't wait for that - it's why it's going on last bar the spare wheel.

Yes mate, the M4 screws hold the headlight rim to the main headstock (x2) I think they have a raised countersunk head for a flat bladed screwdriver.
There may be a knack to fitting the beam, I have a leg shield tool box on mine so I cut the beam (wish I hadn't now)  

Sorry David you have lost me again. There is only a single screw to hold the headlight rim. At 6 o clock. Or am Missing something?

Why do you wish you had not cut your beam? Your toolbox looks brill and the extra storage must be handy.

Ed, my biggest apologies,     what a chump I am. I've been working on my G.P headlight and must have got some kind of Lambretta crossover blockage.
Yes there is only one screw underneath the headlight I would think this will be a m4 or m5. I used a button headed allen bolt on mine (not standard)
Back to the beam, I cut mine for a reason I can't think of now, probably access to wiring, I just wish I'd cut it inside the tool box now.
I've just fitted a rev counter and clock to the LD tool box holes, probably O.T.T. but I was tired of looking at the blanking plates. I'll post up some pics soon. Sorry again for the brain fail        

David. It may be over kill but I bet it looks bloody great.

The reason I ask re the bolt is because it's full of paint and powder coat and i normally run a tap down if to clean it out. Don't want to use the wrong one

A slightly frustrating afternoon in the garage. I went to set up gear and clutch trunnions only to find the ones I had are not deep enough to fit the cable through when sat on the levers. Dont know where they came from or what happened to the ones I used to use on the Lui before I stripped it. Anyway I will have to wait for some new ones to arrive. Also noticed that the gear arm lever had managed to work itself back to front so only way to get it the right way around was to take exhaust and rear wheel off. I thought the rear hub was going to have to come off too which would be been even more frustrating.

Whilst I was looking at the cables I also noticed that I think i have cut my clutch outer too short so I will probably replace that and also I was wondering on whether the closeness of the gear adjuster to the rubber cable cover is normal?



Also started thinking about how to fit the middle beam. It does look tricky. Any advice on that one appreciated!

Nearly there now. Had a few problems with the light rim but I've managed to tweak it enough to fit. Just repairing the paint work from all the tweaking. I've fitted a fast action throttle as well

Just need to fit the central beam and spare wheel and fingers crossed its MOT time - assuming nothing breaks and she rides ok. Been down the road on it for the first time in 7 odd years but never really got out of second because it was so wet. I'd forgotten how small they are! It died for some reason which I assumed was running out of petrol so I took it in but it was fine restarting in the garage.

https://youtu.be/7h6FgWnx2Qw