starstream in to vega bearings.

hi, just wondering what bearings and seals to order,to fit the starstream internals in to vega case. are they the same as standard vega ones. cheers.

Hi Bozee, yep bearings & seals should be the same, just need to be 4 speed, not 3 speed.
The only thing you need to identify is if your Crank & Mag are ball bearing or 3 piece bearing combinations, so you can replace with the correct bearing & inner Mag seal, as the inner Mag seals are different also.

3 piece bearing Mag - 20050014, 1 piece Ball bearing Mag - 20950045.

Hope this helps.....Steve         P.S. there is a post with pictures to help in tech Tips....

This is good to know as I hope to. I'm attempting the same modification over Xmas period. I'm hoping most of the original bearings will be ok, or am I just being tight?

Hi Mickey, as you will have the motor apart, to me it would be a good time to renew bearings & seals. Unless you plan on doing serious miles on it, you'll only ever change them the once.
Obviously 1st check the current bearings for play & if they run free & smooth with no side play, then maybe just consider changing seals? Also check big end play on the crank. If it is only going to be a stock 125, then you have some scope with tolerances but, if you are doing a 135/140 conversion then everything needs to be in good fettle.
My opinion is unless you know the history of the donor parts, then for the piece of mind & cost of a set of bearings, I would be inclined to change them.
Always change both sides if you are going to replace one bearing, that way going forward you know all is even ref mileage & wear on both sides.....Steve

P.S. On the 3 piece crank there is a spacer shim between the inner race & crank cheek, try to save it if you renew your Mag-side, as SR only have a thicker shim now. Hope this helps....

cheers steve, the engine im stripping has been rebuilt, but as im doin tzr conversion i think ill take no chances with using the starstream bearings and go for new ones.as you said to mikey i dont really want to build it a second time especially with the extra power of the 135.

You are both right if course. I 'll only regret not changing them. Now if could only get the engine out of the frame (the engine bolt is seized solid) I can get cracking.

mickey c wrote:You are both right if course. I 'll only regret not changing them. Now if could only get the engine out of the frame (the engine bolt is seized solid) I can get cracking.

This fella cant be far away, eh Mike?

Mike, if you do start stripping your engine note whats been said in other posts about mag flange extraction. DONT try to use the method you'd use on a series 3 and push it out with some M8 bolts