My Lui 125 conversion

Well after a less than overwhelming response to my post on the LCGB forums I've ordered a loom from Beedspeed. A friend has had one made there and apparently they did a very good job. Lets hope the same is the case for me

Whilst I wait I thought I'd turn to another outstanding issue, that being how to fit a number plate to a Lui with a std rear light unit.

Has anyone else done this? If so what solution was used? This must be a problem for all Uk Lui owners!

I'm thinking of using a small frame Vespa number plate holder. It has a raised section that would help accommodate the central ridge you find on Luna's. However its not deep enough so I'd think I should be able to resolve this by fitting some sort of spacer to push it away from the frame. I'll put some pictures up when I have them

Back light and possible position of number plate holder




The gap then needs to be bridged.



I'm thinking that four bolts will be required rather than just two which of course I would prefer

Also that I could possibly get away with using a number of washers rather than making a spacer - at least for the time being as I dont have anything to hand to use

Of course if I'd thought of it before having it painted I could of had the spine ground down like the part you can see above the rear light unit - this was done in Italy to allow someone to fit a none std rear light unit

The loom has turned up quicker than expected

This is the included wiring diagram. I hope it bloody works!

Also I've not fitted my stand spring so when rooting around in the loft for a chromed one I acquired a while back I found these parts. Any one care to ID them for me?

Bottom right looks to me very much something that fits to the frame tube so its probably too late to fit.

Top left is goes in the headset somewhere I think?

no pic snails ?

daz.h wrote:no pic snails ?

Doh!

Hi Ed
Top left I think is the bolt that holds the headset top down, it goes between the cables running through it.
The two rubber parts are the cap to fit over the rear shock pin on the exhaust side and the other I think is the rear brake pedal electrics boot.
The last bit looks like a frame cup for steering bearings to me but again i'm not too sure

Thanks thackers.

I never even knew the rear shock bolt should have a rubber cover!

 well done Thackers, snails the rubber cap fits over a little nipple (oerrr) on the frame its on the opposite side to where the top of the shocker mounts.

Well I have my wiring loom from Beedspeed. I got to say its not 100% perfect as they seem to have put too much cable in the section between the rear brake and horn. Don't want to send it back so I will bunch it up and cable tie it.  I guess too long is better than too short  

The looms now fitted and I didn't need to drop the forks or anything which is a relief although the engine is back out again.

I'm working on getting all the cabling and loom sorted out before I restart attaching body work or the engine. I'm waiting for a duel filament bulb holder for the rear light which I will attempt to fit inside the rear light unit.

Also I never realised the gear cables would be such a difficult fit for the cut down bars or I would of opened up the headset a bit before having it painted.

Snails wrote:

daz.h wrote:no pic snails ?

Doh!

If anyone wants the chrome steering cup, drop me a PM and make an offer

Also does anyone have any advice on fitting the stand spring - and don't say "before you fit anything else on"

It looks a right bugger

Well I've now fitted the majority of the cables, I still have some sorting out to do with the electrics and I need a rear light as I have abandoned my attempts to fit a brake light in a Lui rear light

Trying to fit spade connectors for the brake light switch operated by the rear brake but for some reason its seems the connectors on the switch are wider than your communal garden spade connectors. Does anyone know which type are needed?

Below are photos of my front brake switch and the new routing for the loom from the stator - i no longer need the junction box although it will make it harder to drop the engine I wont have to worry about water shorting my electrics!

snails, it will be a pain to remove that engine, there's still time to split the loom and put in a junction box.
see if you can get the front brake light switch further around towards the horn, as the inner beam can be a pain to fit at the best of times.
early lui legsheilds too, watch for the cables rubbing on the edge where they pass through them.
apologies if the post seems negative mate, I'm just trying to give some constructive help from previous experiences.

No offence taken Daz, the reason I make so many posts and pictures is in the hope that people such as your self will point out any errors before they become too serious.

daz.h wrote:snails, it will be a pain to remove that engine, there's still time to split the loom and put in a junction box.

It will be a pain but I don't really intend to be dropping the engine that often and having had a scooter that used to pack up every time it rained I'm fairly keen to not repeat the experience. Also at least this way I can always change my mind if I do find it too inconvenient. However I don't really have too many options of where to mount a junction box other than where I previously had it.

daz.h wrote:See if you can get the front brake light switch further around towards the horn, as the inner beam can be a pain to fit at the best of times.

I was worried about this myself, I'll see if I can shift it further round. Ta

daz.h wrote:Early lui legsheilds too, watch for the cables rubbing on the edge where they pass through them.

I didn't know there was a difference  but cant say I'm surprised   I was worried about this area too as the cables do seem to touch the leggies what ever I do :(I don't remember this problem pre rebuild so maybe the original cable guide is a better idea, and as you have pointed out in the cable guide post these are readily available :)I'm certainly past the point of making the leggie hole bigger

My solution to the cables,        You could also consider Shimano cycle outers as they are thinner

...good work fellas...! my tip would be to add some electrical heat srink over the outer cable in bits where they rub.... 

Progress..as always has been slow...bought two lots of new cable ties to fix the front brake cable, first set were too short and the second I now cant find having left them in the garage..very frustrating..I will hopefully buy another set tomorrow.

Have not found any large spade connectors for the rear brake switch yet either... I have fitted the tank and seat though..no big deal  I have also noticed that the rear hub seems very wobbly     Is this normal?   I've not fully tightened it up yet as I have take it off again at some point. Luna's dont have a cone like a series 3 do they? Should there be a washer of something under the wheel nut?


Anyway as I was a bit stuck I decided to fit the speedo to the headstock. Is this the correct position for securing it? Mine being a Lui I didnt have one when I took it apart.


Still not posted my spare out to Adam although I have boxed it up now.

This is upper part of the speedo, by no means mint but good enough for now. There is probably some method of repairing the damage to the left but I dont know it.

I sent my speedo to America to get it recalibrated, new needle, glass and new chrome bezel.
quite a good price from memory, the bezel and glass are same as a Vespa 90 if you feel like having a go yourself.
the hub should not be wobbly although will be if not done up correctly.
the hub should be fully tightened down on the layshaft then end float can be measured correctly on the end plate.

Thanks Daz

Can you remember who did your Speedo? Dont really fancy doing it myself, although I bet Beedspeed might

Thanks Daz. Just looking at fitting the tank rubber. I don't suppose you HAVE to fit it from above or below for it to go on?

not fitted one in a while snails, but I hope you have one of the new cassa ones, because the original one are a flaming nightmare to get on, the plastic is very stiff, in the past I have filled the sink with boiling water and left it in there for a few mins, then quickly try to fit, but it soon reverts back to hard plastic.

I always seem to be the bearer of bad news to you mate, sorry  

Thanks Daz

I have a strong suspicion I will be buying a new one